Hair Colour Type & Developer Guide

Choosing Your Hair Colour Formula

Not all hair colour is created equal. Understanding the four main formula types helps you pick the right product for your goal — whether you want a dramatic change, a refresh, or a subtle boost.

Permanent Colour

Permanent colour lifts and deposits pigment into the cortex of the hair, producing long-lasting results that grow out rather than fade. It requires a developer (oxidant) to activate. Best for: full grey coverage, significant colour changes, and lightening. Examples from our range: Redken Shades EQ used in a permanent application, Goldwell Topchic, Matrix SoColor.

Demi-Permanent Colour

Demi-permanent colour deposits tone without lifting the natural hair level. It uses a low-volume developer (typically 6–10 vol / 2–3%) and gradually fades over 4–6 weeks, leaving no harsh regrowth line. Best for: blending grey (up to ~50%), refreshing faded colour, toning, and adding shine. Examples: Goldwell Colorance, MATRIX Super Sync.

Semi-Permanent Colour

Semi-permanent colour coats the outside of the hair strand and contains no developer. It fades gradually with shampooing (typically 6–12 washes). Best for: adding vibrancy, conditioning, toning highlighted hair, and experimenting with colour without commitment. No grey coverage.

Gloss / Colour Gloss

A gloss is an express treatment — often applied at the shampoo bowl — that adds shine, corrects tone, and refreshes colour in 5–20 minutes. Redken Shades EQ Gloss is a leading example. Best for: salon finishing treatments, neutralising brassiness, and in-between-appointment refreshes. See: Redken Shades EQ.

Understanding Developer (Oxidant) Strength

Developer is measured in volume (vol) or percentage (%). Higher volume = more lift potential, but also more hair stress. Always follow the manufacturer's recommended volume for your chosen colour line.

Volume Strength (%) Lift Typical Use
6 vol 1.8% None Demi-permanent, gloss treatments, tone deposit only
10 vol 3% Up to ½ level Deposit with slight lift; grey blending on naturally lighter bases; Shades EQ
20 vol 6% 1–2 levels Standard permanent application; reliable grey coverage on most bases
30 vol 9% 2–3 levels Higher lift on darker bases; max-coverage grey applications where lift is also needed
40 vol 12% 3–4 levels Significant lightening; typically reserved for on-scalp highlights or heavy pre-lightening (use with caution)

10 vol vs. 20 vol for grey coverage — the most common question: 10 vol deposits colour with minimal lift and works well on up to ~30–50% grey on lighter natural bases, or when using a demi formula. 20 vol provides full lift for permanent colour and is the standard choice for reliable, complete grey coverage across all bases. If your client has resistant grey or a darker natural level, 20 vol is generally the safer starting point. Always defer to the specific product's mixing instructions.

Grey Coverage at a Glance

Formula Type Grey Coverage Capability Notes
Permanent (e.g. Goldwell Topchic, Matrix SoColor) Up to 100% Most reliable for resistant, coarse grey
Demi-Permanent (e.g. Goldwell Colorance, MATRIX Super Sync) Up to ~50% Blends and softens; fades gracefully
Semi-Permanent None Deposits tone only; grey appears as a highlight
Gloss (e.g. Redken Shades EQ) Minimal blending Refreshes tone; softens the appearance of grey at the regrowth

Mix Ratios — A General Reference

Mix ratios vary by brand and product line. The figures below are general guidelines only — always follow the manufacturer's data sheet for the product you are using.

  • Permanent cream colour (e.g. Goldwell Topchic, Matrix SoColor): typically 1:1 (colour : developer) or 1:1.5 for some ranges
  • Demi-permanent (e.g. Goldwell Colorance): often 1:1.5 or 1:2 with a low-volume activating lotion
  • Demi/toning (e.g. MATRIX Super Sync): typically 1:2 with the recommended low-volume developer
  • Gloss/acidic demi (e.g. Redken Shades EQ): typically 1:1 with Shades EQ Processing Solution

Processing time also varies — check the manufacturer's instructions for timing, heat application, and strand-test recommendations.

This guide is intended for educational purposes. Results depend on individual hair condition, natural level, and application technique. Always perform a strand test before a full application and follow all manufacturer directions.

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